The diamond is the king of all gems. Its magic is often indescribable. What the eye sees creates feelings of happiness throughout the body. If you don’t deal with precious stones every day, you sometimes think for a moment: What’s the green one called again? The sapphire is blue, right? That never happens with diamonds! The stone of stones is omnipresent – adorns only the most beautiful and special pieces of jewellery and is coveted by everyone.
Diamond jewellery has been around for many centuries. Brilliant jewellery on the other hand only for a little over 100 years. What is a brilliant anyway? We’ll explain that below. If you want to buy antique diamond jewelry, you need experienced specialists – at Antique Jewellery Berlin you are in the best hands!
From diamond to brilliant: Evolution of the cuts
To put it bluntly, it takes several million years from rough diamond to brilliant. They are formed in an environment of extreme pressure and blistering heat hundreds of kilometers below the earth’s surface. When this pressure occasionally discharges to the surface in the form of a volcanic eruption, rough diamonds are transported upwards with the lava rock. Finding these precious treasures of Mother Earth and then processing them into gemstones is one of the tasks of a few people who are able to do this due to special skills. Especially the profession of the stone cutter, also called cutter, enjoys the highest reputation.
Antique diamond jewellery can usually be classified very well as typical for an epoch, if one knows and can evaluate the development of grinding and polishing techniques. A perfect cut is of enormous importance for the optical effect of every gemstone. Continuously improved splitting, sawing and cutting techniques have driven the development of cuts since the Georgian era. With the development of the brilliant cut between 1910 and 1919, the most popular diamond cut was created that is still in use today. We antique jewellery experts call all earlier cuts “old cuts”. Until the 14th century, diamonds were only available in their natural octahedron shape, but slowly the first polishing techniques and simple cuts developed.
Old-school cuts: Discover ancient treasures
One of the old cuts is the rose cut. We have diamond chains, rings as well as ear jewellery with the so-called diamond roses in our assortment. They come from the Georgian and Victorian epoch. They were mostly made of silver or yellow gold with a silver layer. Jewellers recognized this optical advantage already 200 years ago: Diamonds set on “white” metal look lighter and also produce more sparkle. When it became possible to work the more precious metal platinum better from around 1900, goldsmiths took advantage of this and placed diamonds on a surface coating or in a platinum setting.
The ambitious demands of the cutters of all eras were of course dedicated to the goal of eliciting a maximum of reflections from the gemstones with artistic and as many cuts as possible. The aim was to ignite the so-called “fire“. That impression of brilliance and sparkle that is so immensely important for the emotional perception and appreciation of diamond jewellery.
It was not until the 16th century that cutters succeeded in varying the previously inescapable octahedral shape of a diamond. However, the road to the diamond was another 300 years. To follow the development of the cuts in the form of our antique diamond jewellery is pure magic. There are wonderful old cuts and fantastic diamond jewellery, in which the precious stones are shown to great effect. Wearing an antique necklace, bracelet or diamond ring means luxurious and lasting enjoyment. To feel respect for a piece of jewellery because the know-how of its creation was far ahead of many others is an exclusive pleasure. But putting on antique diamond jewelry is the greatest pleasure! Whether in yellow gold, white gold, platinum or silver – ladies and gentlemen: the diamond is the star.
What does “carat” mean? How diamonds are valued
The size of a diamond, more precisely its weight, is measured and indicated in carats. The short form of carat is kt or ct. This unit of measurement is already very old and has basically never lost its accuracy. It goes back to the fruit of the carob tree. It was found that the seeds of these squirrel-like fruits actually always weigh 0.2 grams in an amazing way. This unit of measurement retained a general validity which was finalized in 1875 with the introduction of the metric carat. Thus, exactly 0.2 grams have always been regarded as 1 carat diamond. For other gemstones, such as sapphire, ruby and emerald, this also applies.
The carat weight of a diamond or brilliant-cut diamond cannot therefore be determined by top view alone. It depends rather on its dimensions and proportions as a whole. Really undeniable information can only be given, so to speak, if a diamond is in an “unspoilt” state, that is, before it is inserted into a piece of jewellery. However, if one has the possibility as an expert to combine the skills and experience of goldsmiths and restorers, then a determination in set condition is also very accurate! We have such a highly effective network of excellent experts and antique jewellery specialists. There are characteristic features for each cut, which concern the stature and shape of a diamond. With thousands of different gemstones as seen “reference” and the technical possibilities of laser measurement, the determination of the carat value is reliable even with set gemstones.
Brilliant: Optimal cut of rough diamonds
To this day, the brilliant has the most facets of all cuts. The brilliant, also known as the “ideal cut” by the Belgian mathematician and gemologist Marcel Tolkowsky is still a standard today. Although there were some ambitious subsequent cuts, these could not prevail. The brilliant has at least 57 cut facets – with precisely defined proportions. It provides the maximum fire, i.e. radiance, in a diamond. It provides the maximum fire, i.e. radiance, in a diamond. Brilliants reflect the light and refract it countless times, whereby the brilliance in the spectral colors of the rainbow is increased to the maximum. Every modern diamond ring from 1920 onwards, usually an engagement ring with diamond solitaire, carries the ideal stone with a brilliant.
Antique brilliant jewellery and vintage brilliant jewellery inspires among others as:
- Solitaire diamond ring, also diamond solitaire ring, modeled on the first copy of Tiffany’s in New York
- Brilliant earrings and ear studs made of white gold or platinum, for example as a cluster, daisy or with solitaire settings
- Pendants and necklaces with diamonds, made of platinum, yellow gold, white gold and rose gold, pendants e.g. as a horseshoe or as a heart
- Art Deco bracelet in white gold and platinum, with colored gemstones such as sapphire and ruby in combination with brilliants and partly with baguette-cut diamonds
- Engagement rings from the Art Déco and Vintage period, with diamond solitaire or as 3-stone / 5-stone diamond rings
- Jewellery set for women, consisting of bracelet, necklace and diamond earrings
If you want to buy antique diamond jewellery or brilliant jewellery for ladies and gentlemen, this speaks for high demands and sustainable thoughts. To acquire your own collection of jewellery and to expand it again and again with particularly beautiful jewellery increases the joy of life considerably. Brilliant jewellery refines every outfit and can be worn for really every occasion. Most ladies can certainly fall back on her wide range of different pieces and choose the right piece of jewelry for the occasion. For men, the general advice is: gold and diamond jewellery is always a perfect gift! In the end, the giver of the gift does the favor for himself. Because diamond earrings or diamond necklaces shine back! What did Marilyn Monroe say to all the ladies: Diamonds are a girl’s best friend! Antique diamond jewellery is indescribably beautiful – so take a close look and let yourself be enchanted.
Diamonds: jewellery of the highest brilliance
Not only in daylight and sunshine is antique diamond jewellery the highest of feelings. Even by candlelight and dim light, diamonds sparkle on a ring, necklace or bracelet. Because perfectly cut diamonds have an incomparable fire within them. The many facets of a cut create impressive reflections, even in dim light. The diamonds are supported by the setting in which they are held. In almost all cases, goldsmiths and jewellers make sure that the light-hungry gemstones are set in either white gold or platinum. This in no way implies that the piece of jewellery is forged entirely from white metal. Rings, ear studs and all other jewellery can be made of yellow gold or rose gold (red gold). It is only a matter of the setting or the surface coating.
Engagement ring with diamond
The classic engagement ring with diamond solitaire is called “Krappen” in German (Claws), which holds the stone in place. Particularly in the case of engagement rings, a slightly raised and thus open ring head construction is often desired, so that a lot of light also hits the side of the diamond.
Our portfolio: Diamond jewellery and brilliant jewellery of many epochs
Do you also have a heart for diamond jewelry? Our range includes a unique selection of antique and vintage diamond jewelry, from the Georgian era of the 18th century to the vintage period of the early 1980s. We photograph our jewellery for the online shop and our social media channels as best we can. Nevertheless, you will be amazed at how much more sparkle and fire our diamond jewellery creates in reality. That is absolutely nothing to compare! This air upwards, which you may not reckon with, means that antique diamond jewellery from before 1900 will benefit most. The often closed or foil-set diamonds in old cuts already have a very large beam potential, which cannot, however, be fully captured in photos.
With this in mind: Victorian diamond earrings and chains with diamond pendants are just waiting to be discovered by you. As a sparkling gift, you are guaranteed to make your eyes shine! With our expertise from more than 15 years of antique jewellery trading, we stand in Berlin, as well as accessible for the whole world, for a range and for a perfect service that is second to none.
- Gold jewellery from the English Georgian and the finest jewellery with diamonds and other precious stones from the same period in France and the German-speaking countries
- Diamond jewellery, such as necklaces, earrings, brooches and ladies’ rings from the Victorian era, with rose cut diamonds (partially set with foil)
- Light-footed and nature-inspired diamond jewellery from the Edwardian and the parallel Art Nouveau, wonderful pendants and necklaces as well as diamond brooches and rings
- Beguiling Art Déco diamond and brilliant jewellery, influential new designs to this day, the wedding of the engagement rings with diamond solitaire
- Vintage brilliant jewellery with materials and precious stones of the highest quality, which builds an exciting bridge between the masterpieces of ancient and modern times – discover it, it is worth it.
Diamond jewellery is made for lovers who enjoy with all senses. We are sure that we can inspire you with the variety of our antique diamond jewellery. If you go through our assortment and have questions about an item, please do not hesitate to contact us. Which earrings match the existing jewellery collection? Which color stone should play a role in the diamond ring? We are here for you!
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