
Victorian - 1837 to 1901
The Victorian age describes the long period of 63 years of Queen Victoria’s government. During this epoch the British Empire experienced an exorbitant propagation and became one of the four biggest powers of the world. In all corners of the earth the British civilization was pushed and till then unknown industrial and technical innovations changed the everyday life of the people and increased their quality of life. The evident and sound documents about the steep rise of the Empire and the stubborn tradition of supposed oppression, old-fashioned thinking and actions as well as prudishness of the people seem to be unfortunately questionable, but seem to have been reality.
It was the death of the Prince Albert in 1861, which casted a long shadow on the glory of that era. All of a sudden mourning jewellery was widespread. Works from the black material jet were omnipresent as if from nowhere. Whitbyjet claimed the highest quality level itself. Exceptionally and luxuriously carved by hand, faceted and polished, jet jewellery was worn as chains, bracelets and earrings. Motives like flora and fauna came into decorative implementation, as it was typical for Victorian jewellery. Precisely worked out nuances and complicated hand engravings testify to the highest technical skill of the jewellers of that epoch. We make a distinction of 3 style epochs within the Victorian age, which allows understanding the living conditions perfectly.
Early Victorian (1837-1860)
Queen Victoria ascended the throne in the height of the romantic movement. The interest in the Middle Ages and the court life of the knights found its climax in the stories of Sir Walter Scotts (e. g.” Ivanhoe‘) and Victor Hugo’s ‚The Hunchback of Notre Dame‘. In 1834 the so-called Tudor Gothic was chosen as a style inspiration of the new Houses of Parliament. What took place in literature and architecture also had its inspiration in the jewellery creation. The goldsmiths took their motives from the Renaissance, the Middle Ages and nature. They adapted these subjects without copying them precisely. A mood should be created, not a copy. Besides architectural influences nature was also a big subject supplier. Sheets, blossoms and branches are often to be found in the jewellery design. The natural motive, however, which is to be found most often in the Early-Victorian epoch, is the snake. As a symbol of wisdom and infinity it was used in a more positive way those days than it is today. Some materials define this epoch most appropriately. The hair ornament counts to it: the finest threads, twisted and bobbin lace from hair, presents as love and friendship proofs. In addition, glass seedbeads, which were sewed onto the mother-of-pearl and which produced extremely astonishing ornaments. And last but not least jet, that noble fossil material which celebrated its premiere in 1851 at the London world exhibition and wrote jewellery history afterwards. To date, antique jet jewellery works because of its strong and confident statement as a companion to the contemporary fashion. All in all, the jewellery of this epoch reflects the early Victorian society: enthusiastic, optimistic and curious.
Mid Victorian (1860-1885)
If we think in general of the Victorian pieces of jewellery, then these are those extensive, imposing and confident pieces of the mid period. It was not only the growing wealth of the population, which is reflects this style, but also the position of the women who penetrated bit by bit into male domains. For example, it was revolutionary that they were allowed keep their own earned money to themselves! Since 1870 they did not have to deliver their wage any more to the husband. In the pieces of this time motives of antique finds are found which were brought to light in Niniveh, Troy and Etruscan areas of Italy. High-carat examples from the workshops of Giuliano, Castellani Froment-Meurice, Phillips and Brogden emerged there. Pieces of jewellery in the classical style had a rich trimming of big coloured stones and gold showed the typical surface of a peach skin. This was done by a procedure which bestowed a matted, almost velvety structure to the gold. In the middle of the 1870s the taste changed and the trend went to colourless stones, primarily, diamonds. This was probably because of the huge diamond finds in South Africa. These mines which spitted out only large amounts of the popular stones since1867 made them simply inexpensive and accessible for bigger social classes. Also the technical development removed the supremacy of coloured jewellery for a while. In the new and quickly spreading electric light diamonds sparkled unusually strong and inspiring.
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It was the death of the Prince Albert in 1861, which casted a long shadow on the glory of that era. All of a sudden mourning jewellery was widespread. Works from the black material jet were omnipresent as if from nowhere. Whitbyjet claimed the highest quality level itself. Exceptionally and luxuriously carved by hand, faceted and polished, jet jewellery was worn as chains, bracelets and earrings. Motives like flora and fauna came into decorative implementation, as it was typical for Victorian jewellery. Precisely worked out nuances and complicated hand engravings testify to the highest technical skill of the jewellers of that epoch. We make a distinction of 3 style epochs within the Victorian age, which allows understanding the living conditions perfectly.
Early Victorian (1837-1860)
Romantic period
Queen Victoria ascended the throne in the height of the romantic movement. The interest in the Middle Ages and the court life of the knights found its climax in the stories of Sir Walter Scotts (e. g.” Ivanhoe‘) and Victor Hugo’s ‚The Hunchback of Notre Dame‘. In 1834 the so-called Tudor Gothic was chosen as a style inspiration of the new Houses of Parliament. What took place in literature and architecture also had its inspiration in the jewellery creation. The goldsmiths took their motives from the Renaissance, the Middle Ages and nature. They adapted these subjects without copying them precisely. A mood should be created, not a copy. Besides architectural influences nature was also a big subject supplier. Sheets, blossoms and branches are often to be found in the jewellery design. The natural motive, however, which is to be found most often in the Early-Victorian epoch, is the snake. As a symbol of wisdom and infinity it was used in a more positive way those days than it is today. Some materials define this epoch most appropriately. The hair ornament counts to it: the finest threads, twisted and bobbin lace from hair, presents as love and friendship proofs. In addition, glass seedbeads, which were sewed onto the mother-of-pearl and which produced extremely astonishing ornaments. And last but not least jet, that noble fossil material which celebrated its premiere in 1851 at the London world exhibition and wrote jewellery history afterwards. To date, antique jet jewellery works because of its strong and confident statement as a companion to the contemporary fashion. All in all, the jewellery of this epoch reflects the early Victorian society: enthusiastic, optimistic and curious.
Mid Victorian (1860-1885)
The Grand period
If we think in general of the Victorian pieces of jewellery, then these are those extensive, imposing and confident pieces of the mid period. It was not only the growing wealth of the population, which is reflects this style, but also the position of the women who penetrated bit by bit into male domains. For example, it was revolutionary that they were allowed keep their own earned money to themselves! Since 1870 they did not have to deliver their wage any more to the husband. In the pieces of this time motives of antique finds are found which were brought to light in Niniveh, Troy and Etruscan areas of Italy. High-carat examples from the workshops of Giuliano, Castellani Froment-Meurice, Phillips and Brogden emerged there. Pieces of jewellery in the classical style had a rich trimming of big coloured stones and gold showed the typical surface of a peach skin. This was done by a procedure which bestowed a matted, almost velvety structure to the gold. In the middle of the 1870s the taste changed and the trend went to colourless stones, primarily, diamonds. This was probably because of the huge diamond finds in South Africa. These mines which spitted out only large amounts of the popular stones since1867 made them simply inexpensive and accessible for bigger social classes. Also the technical development removed the supremacy of coloured jewellery for a while. In the new and quickly spreading electric light diamonds sparkled unusually strong and inspiring.
Late Victorian (1885-1901) Aesthetic Period
The late Victorians looked with disgust at the complacency of their parents and their taste. They aimed at a complete break with the tradition and in their zeal to lever out every convention, they became romantic in a new way. The Art Worker’s Guild which brought manual artistic creativity close to the public with their exhibition ‚Arts and Crafts Exhibition‘ in 1886 arose from the pre-Raffael painter’s movement. They propagated easier materials and simpler forms. A revolution of the popular taste. The jewellery taste became simpler as well. Less jewellery was worn in general. To wear diamonds during the day was finally the top of bad taste. Anyway little jewellery was worn between 1887 and 1890, so that the „Jewellers Association‘ appealed desperately to Alexandra, the princess of Wales. She was so kind to buy some pieces of the guild and wore them at public appearances. Thereafter the jewellery trade gained motion again. Watches hung on long chains as well as small earrings near the ear were worn. At evening events, like a ball or an opera visit, diamonds in filigree settings were worn as a necklace. Popular was also hair ornament, like combs or delicate Tiaras, mainly set with diamonds and pearls. Almost not a single colour stone was to be seen! In general the colours of the clothes became brighter, softer and more pastel. The jewellery design evolved accordingly. The stone, which characterizes this epoch besides the diamond most appropriately is the opal. Furthermore the society favoured moonstones and natural pearls. Small insects like flies, butterflies or dragonflies were worn as brooches. Also diamond-studded owls, frogs, salamanders and other creatures were typical representatives of this epoch. The appearance of the jewellery in the late Victorian can be hardly called Victorian. It melted with the aesthetics of the French Art nouveau and the German Art nouveau. This presents the beginning of a new international taste and the beginning of the Edwardian era. However, one thing stayed the same: the wish to own the ultimately best what could be achieved with money. An attitude, as it prevailed since the world exhibition in 1851. So the break with traditions was not so drastic as it appeared.Click to fold
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Ca. 1890 – Victorian English Gold Pendant with Pearls, incl. Gold chain
€ 1.290,00
incl. VAT - differential tax applies collectors items and antiques in accordance with German law §25a UStGplus shipping -
Dated 1870 – Victorian English Coloured gemstones ring with Emeralds & Almandines
€ 1.390,00
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Ca. 1880 – 9 Carat Gold Earrings Victorian England
€ 390,00
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Dated 1868 – Victorian English Emeralds ring from Birmingham
€ 1.490,00
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Ca. 1890 – “I cling to thee” Gold Bangle with Pearls, Victorian
€ 990,00
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Ca. 1880 – Victorian Sterling Silver Locket, England
€ 490,00
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Dated 1884 – Sterling Silver Bangle with Hand-engravings, Birmingham
€ 590,00
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Ca. 1880 – Victorian English 925 Silver Bangle with Hand-engravings
€ 590,00
incl. VAT - differential tax applies collectors items and antiques in accordance with German law §25a UStGplus shipping -
Ca. 1890 – Gold-plated Silver Pendant with Almandines & Pearls
€ 430,00
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Ca. 1880 – 18 ct. Gold Bangle with Sapphire-cabochon & Diamonds England
€ 2.900,00
incl. VAT - differential tax applies collectors items and antiques in accordance with German law §25a UStGplus shipping -
Ca. 1900 – 15 ct. Gold & Silver Bracelet with Diamonds Victorian England
€ 2.300,00
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Dated 1892 – Sterling Silver Locket with Hand-engraving & Applications
€ 350,00
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Ca. 1870 – Long Vulcanite chain, from Victorian England
€ 490,00
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Ca. 1880 – Hand-engraved Victorian English Wedding band, made of 18 ct. Gold “Acorns”
€ 990,00
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Ca. 1880 – 9 ct. Gold Earrings England
€ 790,00
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Dated 1891 – Silverbangle with Engravings & gold-plated Relief
€ 590,00
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Ca. 1880 – Hand-engraved Victorian Locket made of 925 Silver
€ 490,00
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Ca. 1870 – Victorian Silver-Locket with hand-crafted engraving
€ 490,00
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Ca. 1880 – Hand-engraved Sterling Silver Locket from England
€ 490,00
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Dated 1870 – Coloured Gemstones ring made of 15 Carat Yellow-gold, Birmingham
€ 1.190,00
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Ca. 1900 – 15 ct. Gold & Silver Brooch “Swallow” with Diamond roses & Ruby, Animal brooch from Victorian England
€ 2.500,00
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Ca. 1880 – Bangle made of Sterling Silver, Motif “Exotic Scene”
€ 890,00
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Ca. 1880 – One Pair of Bracelets made of 925 Sterling Silver
€ 890,00
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Ca. 1870 – Victorian Diamonds penadant with White-goldchain
€ 4.900,00
incl. VAT - differential tax applies collectors items and antiques in accordance with German law §25a UStGplus shipping -
Ca. 1890 – 18 ct. Gold Tiepin with Limoges-Enamel, France
€ 690,00
incl. VAT - differential tax applies collectors items and antiques in accordance with German law §25a UStGplus shipping -
Ca. 1880 – Hand-engraved Locket made of Sterling Silver “Swallow”, Victorian England
€ 350,00
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Ca. 1870 – 18 ct. Gold Earrings with Natural pearls, from France Victorian Yellow-goldearrings with moveable Elements
€ 1.490,00
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Dated 1885 – 18 ct. Gold Men’s ring / Signet ring with hand-engraved Family’s coat of arms in Bloodstone, Victorian England Birmingham
€ 1.290,00
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Ca. 1890 – 18 ct. Gold Ring with Opal & Diamonds Victorian England
€ 5.000,00
incl. VAT - differential tax applies collectors items and antiques in accordance with German law §25a UStGplus shipping -
Ca. 1890 – 15 ct. Gold hand-engraved Brooch with Ruby & Diamond “Swallow” Victorian England
€ 990,00
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Ca. 1900 – Sterling Silver Bracelet with Gold applications
€ 490,00
incl. VAT - differential tax applies collectors items and antiques in accordance with German law §25a UStGplus shipping -
Ca. 1900 – Late Victorian Goldring with Pearls, Garnet & Emeralds
€ 1.290,00
incl. VAT - differential tax applies collectors items and antiques in accordance with German law §25a UStGplus shipping -
Ca. 1900 – French Sterling Silver Bracelet with Gold applications
€ 490,00
incl. VAT - differential tax applies collectors items and antiques in accordance with German law §25a UStGplus shipping -
Ca. 1900 – Late Victorian Emerladring with 12 Diamonds / Engagement ring
€ 3.900,00
incl. VAT - differential tax applies collectors items and antiques in accordance with German law §25a UStGplus shipping -
Ca. 1890 – 15 ct. Gold Bangle with Moonstone Heart & Pearls Victorian England
€ 1.590,00
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Ca. 1890 – “Swallows” Victorian Goldearrings with Old-cut Diamonds
€ 1.890,00
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Ca. 1860 – Etruscan Revival Gold Earrings from Victorian England
€ 1.690,00
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Ca. 1860 – Etruscan Revival Goldearrings from Victorian England
€ 1.690,00
incl. VAT - differential tax applies collectors items and antiques in accordance with German law §25a UStGplus shipping -
Ca. 1900 – Late Victorian Poison-Ring made of 15 Carat Yellow-gold
€ 1.290,00
incl. VAT - differential tax applies collectors items and antiques in accordance with German law §25a UStGplus shipping -
Dated 1899 – Hand-engraved Wedding band made of 18 Carat Gold
€ 890,00
incl. VAT - differential tax applies collectors items and antiques in accordance with German law §25a UStGplus shipping -
Ca. 1850 – Victorian “Forget Me Not” Turquoises ring made of 15 ct. Gold
€ 790,00
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Dated 1875 – Victorian Almandines ring with six Natural pearls
€ 1.190,00
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Ca. 1900 – French Goldearrings with Diamonds
€ 1.990,00
incl. VAT - differential tax applies collectors items and antiques in accordance with German law §25a UStGplus shipping -
Ca. 1870 – Victorian English Peridotring with Diamonds / Gold & Silver
€ 2.200,00
incl. VAT - differential tax applies collectors items and antiques in accordance with German law §25a UStGplus shipping -
Ca. 1880 – Victorian Diamonds Brooch made of 15 Carat Gold & Silver
€ 1.890,00
incl. VAT - differential tax applies collectors items and antiques in accordance with German law §25a UStGplus shipping -
Ca. 1870 – Victorian Diamond-Earrings made of 15 Carat Gold & Silver
€ 4.900,00
incl. VAT - differential tax applies collectors items and antiques in accordance with German law §25a UStGplus shipping -
Ca. 1900 – Late Victorian Diamonds Clusterring with Natural pearl
€ 1.990,00
incl. VAT - differential tax applies collectors items and antiques in accordance with German law §25a UStGplus shipping -
Ca. 1870 – Etruscan Revival English Earrings made of 15 ct. Gold, Victorian
€ 1.690,00
incl. VAT - differential tax applies collectors items and antiques in accordance with German law §25a UStGplus shipping -
Ca. 1880 – Victorian Cornelian Signet-ring with Intaglio, 18 ct. Gold
€ 1.490,00
incl. VAT - differential tax applies collectors items and antiques in accordance with German law §25a UStGplus shipping -
Ca. 1850 – Pietra Dura / 15 Carat Yellow-gold Earrings
€ 1.290,00
incl. VAT - differential tax applies collectors items and antiques in accordance with German law §25a UStGplus shipping -
Ca. 1880 – French Goldearrings with Natural pearls
€ 1.590,00
incl. VAT - differential tax applies collectors items and antiques in accordance with German law §25a UStGplus shipping